Nature's Evil [calibre 5.27.0]
- Автор: Эткинд Александр Маркович
- Год: 2022
- Язык: английский
- Год: Wiley
- Переводчик: Sara Jolly
- Жанр: История
Электронная книга - «Nature's Evil [calibre 5.27.0]». Краткое содержание книги:
European garments were often made of a blend of cotton with wool or linen. This fabric was called ‘fustian’; the forerunner of denim, it was hard-wearing and relatively cheap. The warm, brightly coloured clothing we see in Brueghel’s winter scenes was made of this long-forgotten material; it was all made at home, using very simple equipment. In Southern Europe, light clothes made of coloured cotton displaced silk. For a long time, India had the monopoly on the art of dyeing cotton or printing a design on it. The price of coloured textiles doubled during the course of the eighteenth century. Silk panels decorated the bedchambers of kings and the altars of churches. Furniture, walls and windows, upholstered or curtained with cotton textiles, became a feature of middle-class households. Still, they were precious. In 1791 a mob of Anglican supporters attacked the house of Joseph Priestly in Birmingham – the celebrated chemist was a Dissenter. Priestly claimed compensation and listed among his losses the matrimonial bed with a cotton canopy and a set of bed linen. He valued them at £25, a quarter of his annual income. 28
Joint stock companies were created to trade in cotton and other Eastern goods, with royal households the main investors in these companies. The British East India Company specialised in importing cotton to Europe, while the Dutch East India Company concentrated on trade between the Asian powers. But the growth of the cotton trade undermined the traditional interests of the wool producers – the majority of British landowners and tenants who got their income from sheep and wool processing. To protect its sheep, weavers and landowners, the British Parliament in the early eighteenth century issued the Calico Acts (1700, 1721), which banned the import of printed textiles from India; for the same reason, France, Spain and Prussia banned any imports of cotton. India was impoverished; huge areas were deprived of their usual income. Then the American plantations entered the picture. The route from America to England was shorter than that from Asia, and the mercantilist system encouraged the import of raw materials from the colonies while limiting the import of manufactured textiles. All this gave a boost to cotton mills in England and plantations in the American South.
Tobacco, sugar and cotton: all three plant-based raw materials needed large plantations and cheap, repetitive labour. Economy of scale played an ever-increasing role: the bigger the enterprise, the cheaper the cost of production and, therefore, the greater the profit. For the sake of cotton, any gentleman got the right to trade in human beings (1698); moreover, the governors in the British West Indies received a bonus for every slave supplied. The risks of the slave trade were unparalleled. On the transatlantic crossing one in five ships was lost; but in Liverpool it was thought that, even if one in every two ships made it to port with its cargo, then the owner made a profit. Capital acquired from sugar, cotton and slaves went to shipbuilders, insurers, bankers and mill-owners. Barclays Bank was founded by a family of Quakers who worked as slave traders in the West Indies. Lloyd’s of London began by insuring deals in slaves, sugar and cotton. James Watt, inventor of the first steam engine, was financed by a bank that derived income from trade in the West Indies. 29
In the name of efficiency, slave-owning plantations specialised in monoculture – they produced nothing but cotton. The harvested cotton had to be cleaned, pressed into bales and delivered to the docks. The cleaning process caused a bottleneck in the system – it was tedious to separate each fibre from the seed coat. By inventing the ‘cotton gin’, a mechanical gadget that made cleaning fifty times quicker, Eli Whitney enabled the rapid burgeoning of cotton plantations in the American South. Whitney patented his invention but never made any money from it; after many unsuccessful lawsuits he switched to designing muskets. Like sugar cane, cotton rapidly depleted the soil. But, unlike sugar, cotton would grow in Louisiana – a vast and boundless territory compared with the small islands of the West Indies. Labour was in short supply there, but the volume of the cotton trade doubled nearly every decade. Little else in history can compare with the explosive growth of the cotton trade; only sugar before it, and petroleum after it, grew as fast.
‘King Cotton’ led to the catastrophically rapid deforestation of the new continent. New plantations in Louisiana needed canals, which dried out the boggy soil. Supplies reached the plantations via these canals – slaves, grain, dried or salted fish, hemp ropes and bales, linen shirts for the slaves, and luxury items for the plantation owners. The work went on all year round; in December the third cotton crop of the year was harvested, and then it had to be cleaned and pressed into bales. The life of a slave was nothing like the life of a peasant with its complicated tasks and periods of creative idleness. Focused on nothing but profit, the cotton plantation became the first capitalist enterprise, while slaves were the first industrial workers. It was not for nothing that factory workers were later compared to slaves.
Proto-industry
On the other side of the ocean, in England, the village processing of cotton expanded and became more specialised. Even in 1833 the majority of the wool and cotton in England was processed by hand, in rural workshops. But, as had earlier happened in Italy, the mills gravitated towards cities. Bales of cotton were brought straight from the ports and distributed to individual houses; the peasants spun it by hand or wove it on hand looms, sometimes adding wool or linen that they themselves had produced. Much more than wool, the processing of cotton depended on middlemen. It was they who delivered the bales of raw material to the villages, and they who collected the rolls of finished cloth and delivered them to tailoring workshops. As always happened, these curators took the greatest share of the profits. Servicing a cluster of neighbouring villages, they paid for the cotton out of their own pockets. Their business was simple, risky and profitable. The spinners, knitters and weavers earned a wage in a free labour market without leaving home. While women were working the looms, their husbands worked the land, as subsistence farmers. But it was this industry that led the villages onto the hard road of trade and growth. Peasant families were able to spend the cash they earned on sugar and tea, rum and gin, horses and harness, and, finally, silver and decoration. Many, though not all, of the goods introduced into the countryside came from the colonies; from sugar and tobacco to fashionable calico prints, these addictive commodities engendered habit and dependency. These led to the ‘decomposition of the peasantry’, a process that Lenin and other critics of capitalism wrote about. In fact it was exactly the same thing they called ‘progress’. The development of the fibre proto-industry in different parts of the world engaged in global trade – in England, India, New England, and on the shores of the White Sea in Russia – played a key role in the change in gender relations and the development of mass consumption. Characteristic of textiles, fashion became a universal tool for accelerating the market. 30
Invented for wool, spinning and weaving technologies were easily adapted for cotton. Water-powered machines gave cotton its decisive advantage, which was later amplified by the power of coal and steam. In 1780, ten times more woollen textiles were produced in the British Isles than cotton goods. In 1850, six times more cotton textiles were produced than woollen. By this time, in order to replace the output of British cotton factories with woollen textiles, it would have required 168 million sheep, which would have grazed 50 million acres of pastureland, twice the area of all the agricultural land in the British Isles. The intensive cultivation on the American plantations, and the mills of the first Industrial Revolution, gave England millions of ‘ghost acres’. 31 The balance of trade also gained by this massive switch from wool to cotton. During the eighteenth century, the deliveries of raw cotton to the British Isles increased threefold, while the export of manufactured cotton goods increased by a factor of fifteen.